Scala Santa - The holy Steps
We started the day by walking to San Giovanni in Laterano. At first we entered a small church, which actually is part of San Giovanni, but lies on the other side of the street. There are 5 stairs leading to the church room. The one in the middle is called 'The holy steps' - Scala Santa. 28 of the steps has been imported from the palace of Pontius Pilatus in Jerusalem. They are made of marble, but now covered by wood. If the legend is correct Jesus has walked these steps to and from his conviction. We saw a lot of people climbing these steps on their knees and praying. When one of 'the pilgrims' reached the top, he started singing a psalm in a loud voice. It was very moving. On top of the stairs is the Pope's private chappel since 1278.

This marble mask is called Mouth of Truth (Bocca della Verità). According to popular belief it was said that any one putting his hand in this mouth and swearing falsely, could not withdraw it. We did not have the nerve to test it. The mask is situated in the atrium of St. Mary's in Cosmedin church.

San Giovani
Then we entered San Giovanni, which in fact still is the cathedral of Rome (we also believed, that it was San Pietro). After his victory over Maxentius in 312 AD and the Edict of Milan of 313, which proclaimed Christianity the official religion of the Empire, Constantine donated the basilica to the African pope Melchiades (311-314 AD). In addition, Constantine donated the adjacent (right) domus ecclesiae, which became the Lateran palace and remained the official residence of the popes until their return from Avignon in 1377, at which time the popes took up residence at the Vatican. Still considered the 'the mother and head of all churches of the city and the world', the Lateran remains the official cathedral of Rome. The facade was designed and built by Alessandro Galilei in 1734-36 and consists of a two-storied portico surmounted by an attic with 16 colossal statues of Christ with Apostles and saints. The pope - who is bishop in San Giovanni - gives his benediction from the central loggia on Maundy Thursday (The Thursday of Holy Week). Beneath the portico, the bronze central doors were taken from the Curia (Senate) in the Roman Forum. Like several other churches in Rome there is a special door, only to be used every 25 years - in the so called Holy Year.

Over 330 feet long with two aisles on either side of the nave, the interior of St. Giovanni preserves its original 4th century (Constantinian) proportions. In the altar are the remains of the table, that Peter and the first popes used as an altar. We witnessed a service and were astonished to hear the participants sing as wonderful as a professional chorus. An incredibly large and beautiful church.
 
 
Off the left transept of the basilica one finds an exquisite 13th century cloister, the masterpiece of Jacapo and Pietro Vassalletto (c.1220-36) and a magnificent example of Cosametesque Art. The columns, some plain and some twisted, are adorned with mosaics and have varied capitols. Many fragments from the Constantinian basilica are displayed around the cloister walls.

Terme di Caracalla
We continued our journey to Terme di Caracalla, which are the most luxurous baths of ancient Rome. There were room for more than 3.000 bathing visitors at a time. Part of the main building has been restored - into an opera scene. Every summer Verdi's Aidi is performed here. Besides the batchs there were gardens, libraries, sport facilities, and theatres. A great part of the enormous buildings have been used as building material.

Circus Maximus

Next stop was Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus), which was built 326 BC. We had been looking forward to seing this huge arena (where the classic movie Ben Hur took place). But not much is left. It was firstly built for horse races, the favourite sport of the old Romans. More than 300.000 spectators could watch the races. Each race lasted 7 rounds - one for every known planet. Later on in history the circus was used for public executions. You can still see some of the ruins of the buildings, but most material has been used for building purposes. For instance the tall obelisk on Sct. Peter's Square was moved from Circus Maximus. Today the area is laid out as a public park.

Teatro Marcello
Theatre Marcello is probably one of the best known buildings of Rome. It looks like a miniature of Colosseum. It was built under Julius Cecar and had room for more than 20.000 spectators. But the theatre was not able to compete with the fierce games, that took place in the neighbouring Colosseum, so it was shut down in 235. Soon after it was used as a stock for material for repairing the bridges of the Tiber.

Santa Maria in Trastevere
We carried on to Santa Maria in Trastevere, which lies on Pza. di Santa Maria in Trastevere. The church is probably the oldest church in Rome. Any way it is the oldest church, dedicated to Virgin Mary, built in 222. The legend says, that the chuch has been built on the spot, where a well of olive oil sprang, when Jesus was born. Especially the mosaics of the church are worth noticing. This also goes for the 22 coloums, which have been moved from Terme di Caracalla.

San Pietro in Montorio
San Pietro in Montorio claims to be founded on the spot, where Peter was crucified. But science believes Peter to be buried on the Vatican Hill. Sponsors of the church were Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain (who also sponsored Christopher Columbus, whom we 'met' on Tenerife this spring on his way to America/India). The church is mostly known for the small temple (and we mean small), that was built by Bramante in the courtyard, where St. Peter was thought to have been crucified. After this we walked back to Hotel Kennedy.

Stand Up Comedian?
In the evening we had a barbecue chicken from a grill bar in the neighbourhood. Outside the grill bar stood a man. He stood there every time we passed by. We saw him at 9 o'clock in the morning. And we saw him again 11 o'clock in the evening. Always with a bottle of beer to his mouth. And I mean always. Not once we saw him take the bottle from his mouth. (By the way, an excellent beer - Heineken from Belgium/Holland). He did not seem to drink from the bottle. Just holding it to his mouth. Wonder, if he will still be standing there, when we come back in a few years?

 
Arrivederci, Roma
From the motion picture "Seven Hills of Rome"
Lyrics by Carl Sigman, Music by R. Rascel

Arrivederci Roma
Goodbye, goodbye, to Rome.
City of a million moonlit places,
City of a million warm embraces,
Where I found one of all the faces
Far from home.

Arrivederci Roma
It's time for us to part.
Save the wedding bells for my returning,
Keep my lover's arms outstretched and yearning,
Please be sure the flame of love keeps burning
In his/her heart.